Kazaphana Mosque, Ozanköy, North Cyprus

Going east from Kyrenia, there are many places to stop off and explore, some easy to find whilst some others not so easy!  The further east you travel from Kyrenia you come across many ancient and historically fascinating places that remain in good condition and make North Cyprus a beautiful place for all things ancient and historic!

Starting in Ozanköy you can see the 17^th century Kazaphana Mosque, a well kept example of Ottoman architecture, with the two graves of the architect and donator to the mosque.  There is also the Panayia Tou Potmau church built around the 15^th century, although sadly many of the frescoes inside have now deteriorated.

Bellapais Abbey, North Cyprus

Turning in land up to Bellapais you will be able to visit the stunning Abbey, originally constructed around 1200 by the Lusignans for monks who were forced to leave Jerusalem by the Saracens.  The Abbey became an extremely influential and important place for religion until it was seized by the Genoese in 1373 when it was looted.  During other occupations of the island the Abbey was left to decline, and after the Ottomans invaded in 1570 the buildings were further desecrated, with much of the stone from the Abbey being used to build the surrounding village.  Lawrence Durrell’s book Bitter Lemons of Cyprus, which everyone should read if coming to visit North Cyprus, depicts his time spent in this area and includes descriptions of the now infamous Tree of Idleness in the village, although no one really knows which tree in Bellapais Durrell was actually describing!

Hazreti Omer Tekke, Çatalköy, North Cyprus

Following the coastal road to the east at Çatalköy, the next most prominent historical building is the Hazreti Omer Tekke which stands directly on the coastline.  You can find this by turning left at the football stadium which stands on the main road and following the road through a property development which leads to the Tekke.  This was built during Ottoman times as a shrine to the above named commander and six soldiers who were killed during the Arab raids in the 7^th century, they were respected by both Turkish and Greek Cypriots.

Buffavento Castle, North Cyprus

By remaining on the main road rather than turning along the coast towards Esentepe you will travel up the mountain road which will take you to Buffavento Castle, here you can spend a few hours exploring this wonderful example of the Byzantine era.  There is also a monument dedicated to the crew of an Talia Airways flight which crashed on the mountain in 1988.  Carrying on along the main road you will also find the Alevkaya Forestry Station which is a great place to while away the time having a picnic in the forest and visiting the Herbarium.

Sourp Magar Monastery, North Cyprus

Another historical site in this area is the Sourp Magar Monastery, built around 1,000 and dedicated to Saint Makarius of Alexandria, Armenians took over the monastery in the 15^th century and it was used as a resting point for pilgrims travelling to and from Jerusalem.  These days it’s not in a particularly good condition with decay taking its toll, but it is still a great place to visit, but do take care when walking around as some of the structure is slightly dangerous to clamber around!

Another example of a Byzantine church and monastery is Antiphonitis, located just beneath the village of Esentepe.  A simple design built in the 12^th century, there are still some surviving frescoes as well as additions from the 15^th century which make it well worth a visit.

Travelling west from this area, the village of Taşkent is home to the Panayia Absinthiotissa monastery, this is a large Byzantine structure with Gothic influences from the 15^th century.  Restored in the 1960s it’s still in pretty good order structurally speaking, but it is now bereft of any murals or frescoes.

Antiphonitis Monastery, North Cyprus

Back on the coastal road and within the Acapulco Resort is the remains of Vrysin, a Neolithic site found and excavated in 1969.  Sadly now not preserved in any way, the excavation revealed several stone huts partially sunk into the earth as well as painted pottery.

Continuing along the coastal road you will see several examples of churches built around the 15^th century, mostly now derelict, looted and locked.  Along the coast you can also see some good examples of buildings which would have been used for storage of such export items as carob, which have stood the test of time considering their position on the coastal headland.

Kantara Castle, North Cyprus

Further along the coast you will see signs for the Byzantine Kantara Castle, to get to it you will again turn inland.  From here you can see for miles around – from Famagusta in the south and up to the Karpaz in the east.

That finishes our review of the places of interest to the east of Kyrenia.  There are many more that you may find along your travels, so please do let us know if you think something deserves a mention!  Please click any of the links within the article to find out more about a particular item, or visit other articles detailing places of interest in Kyrenia, to the west of Kyrenia, Lefkoşa, Famagusta and the Karpaz.

The outskirts of Bellapais are also home to the Early Bronze Age necropolis of Vounous, although this site has now been pilfered and robbed by many and is no longer really the experience it should be.

The ruins of Bellapais Abbey itself are of huge proportions and you can spend hours exploring and gazing at some of the truly magnificent remains of superb gothic architecture, all incredibly imposing on the eye.  Originally founded as the Abbaye de la Paix in around 1200 by Aimery de Lusignan for the use of Augustine monks who had been forced to leave Jerusalem, it was also referred to in history as the White Abbey, possibly due to the fact that the monks who lived there all wore white habits.  It benefited from rich and influential benefactors such as King Hugues III, and grew considerably in size and importance.

This was however until the Genoese invaded in 1373 when it suffered terribly by being looted and robbed of its treasures – it was said that even part of the ‘true’ cross was taken.  From this time onwards the fortunes of the Abbey declined ever further with the Venetians sapping it of its prosperity for themselves, and it even morally declined too, being recorded that in the 16^th century some monks took a wife (or even two!) with their offspring being the only ones allowed to enter novice monkhood.

Once the Ottomans had invaded in 1570 the Abbey was left to decay even further, with much of its stonework being used to build up the surrounding areas and villages.  There is sadly not much evidence of what happened to the monks (and their wives!), but it is likely that they would have integrated into the communities that grew after the Ottomans arrived on the island.   Despite its decline, The Abbey still retains much of its charm, and enough of its structure remains so that even today there are still examples of architecture from the 13^th century, such as the church built in Frankish Gothic style with some wonderful frescoes and the nave, as well as 14^th century cloisters, and a superbly carved sarcophagus dating back to around 2AD, amongst much more of interest.

The ruins are a stupendous testament to history and one of its main features is the refectory which sits on the edge of the cliff overlooking the sea to the north – and above its entrance is a marble lintel bearing the carving of the arms of Jerusalem, the Lusignans and Cyprus.  Under British Rule this huge 27 metre long refectory was used as a rifle range, although somewhat surprisingly it remains intact!  Anyway, we shall not divulge all of its mystical charms, as you no doubt will want to visit yourselves!  Opening hours are usually 9am-7pm daily from June until mid-September and 9am-5pm daily from mid-September until May.

All around the Abbey there are wonderful sights to see, and due to its size, the wonderfully tended gardens, and its superb position offering views to the east and west you can spend many an hour at the Abbey before looking at your watch!  Outside of the Abbey itself there are plenty of places to have lunch or refreshments, and walking around the surrounding village you will see both modern and historical buildings of interest.

Today Bellapais is a busy village or small town with plenty of tourist groups and individuals making the journey up the mountain to visit this beautiful and enchanting place.  You can also attend one of the many musical events held at the Abbey during the festival season, although perhaps there is something to be listened to in the concerns expressed by some about the preservation of this monument and the damage that noise may do to its structures.

There are plenty of walking tracks leading from the village, so if you are in the mood for some exploring around the area then there is plenty to do, although it would be wise to have your bearings as there is opportunity for getting lost!  Bellapais is also well known for its wonderful little boutique hotels too, making it an excellent place to spend an affordable and rewarding holiday!

One remaining point of interest is that writer and novelist Lawrence Durrell lived in Bellapais from 1953-1955, writing his well-known book ‘Bitter Lemons of Cyprus’ and also his novel ‘Justine’ during this time.  Durrell describes his wonder at his first sighting of the Abbey and its history in detail several times in the book, and tells the humorous tale of the famous Tree of Idleness, which apparently made the person who sat underneath its branches extremely lazy!

Before we start it’s definitely important to note that the Rustem Bookshop in Lefkosa also has many guides and pictorial books on offer, and they publish their own volumes about Cyprus too.  You will often find pamphlets and booklets produced by Dr. William Dreghorn there too, he’s a superb geological writer who produced some wonderful short guides on the beaches and castles in North Cyprus, all illustrated with his own fair hand.  This writer is worth a mention here because of his knowledge about North Cyprus!  Unfortunately though, it would seem that many of his works are now out of print, so it may require some hunting to find his books!

Guide Books

North Cyprus Country Guide by Diana Clarke – Bradt Travel Guides

This is one of the most popular guidebooks around, and it was recently reprinted in 2008; Diana Clarke’s first edition was published in 1993 so it has needed updating by travel writers considerably since that time!  A seasoned and excellent travel writer, Diana has written many travel guides for countries in the Middle Eastern region including Oman and Syria, and her book on North Cyprus is jam packed full of background and practical information, as well as comprehensive regional guides each giving the low down on what to do, where to eat and stay, how to get there, and where to see the many historical and modern sights of North Cyprus.  Thoroughly recommended!

Diana Clark – North Cyprus Brandt Travel Guide

Northern Cyprus (Landmark Visitors Guide) by Kristina Gursoy and Lavinia Neville-Smith

This gives an excellent insight into Northern Cyprus and is written by two authors who, being long-term residents of the island, make them both very qualified to write about their subject matter!  It is very well represented pictorially too, and has plenty of information on history, flora and fauna, things to see and where to go, as well as including recommendations for restaurants and shops.

Kristina Gursoy & Lavinia Neville-Smith – Northern Cyprus (Landmark Visitors Guide)

Northern Cyprus – A Travellers Guide by Eileen Davey

Although not having been reprinted for some time, this is still a valuable volume to have if you are interested in the historical landmarks of North Cyprus, which obviously don’t really change that much!  There are some excellent, in-depth and very detailed sections on the various ruins and sites in North Cyprus, and the book offers a wealth of knowledge on archaeology and the periods of history that has given Cyprus such a rich history.  A really good book to have if you want to see the island from an historical point of view.

Eileen Davey – Northern Cyprus, A Travellers Guide

Novels and Reading

Bitter Lemons of Cyprus by Lawrence Durrell

 First published in 1957, this is one of the most popular novel’s for those interested in reading an individual’s experiences of life in North Cyprus during the troubled times in Cyprus’ recent history.  Durrell’s account of his time in Cyprus starts purely from his wish to find peace in the sun and an old house to live in, but gradually the novel takes the reader through some often hilarious events and gives fascinating insight into the turmoil and frustration he experiences in dealing with the tragedy that unfolds between the warring factions.  A must read in our opinion.

Lawrence Durrell – Bitter Lemons of Cyprus

Getting a Life in North Cyprus by Adrian Fleetwood

For those who are thinking of moving to live in North Cyprus, this is a very interesting read all about the Fleetwood’s personal account of their life – from their first visit to the island and to their subsequent decision to move here and build their own home.  Published in 2006, it’s filled with anecdotes, tales and personal experiences of moving to a foreign land, and it’s a good book for first introductions to North Cyprus from someone’s personal perspective!

Adrian Fleetwood – Getting a Life in North Cyprus

Historical & Political

The Genocide Files by Harry Scott-Gibbons

A generally commended book by those who read it, The Genocide Files delves into the history of the ‘Cyprus problem’ and captures the futile and horrendous times that have existed in its recent history.

Harry Scott-Gibbons – The Genocide Files

Burdened with Cyprus – The British Connection by John Reddaway

This book is a detailed account of the British Colonial rule of Cyprus since the 1800s, and one which examines the negotiations, decisions and problems that arose from Britain’s decision to depart the island as well as an insight into the ENOSIS movement and its effect on the British rule at the time.

John Redway – Burdened with Cyprus

The Cyprus Conspiracy – America, Espionage and the Turkish Invasion by Brendan O’Mally and Ian Craig

This book makes a crucial contribution to people’s understanding of super power politics, international intelligence gathering and helps to shed light on Cyprus’s strategic importance to the world’s major players, and their part in the lasting divide of the island.

Brendan O’Mally & Ian Craig – The Cyprus Conspiracy

Nature & Wildlife

Collins Complete Mediterranean Wildlife (Photoguide) by Paul Sterry

If you want to know everything there is to know about every type of wildlife that you may happen to come across whilst in North Cyprus, then this is the book for you!  It is packed with photographs and descriptions of birds, reptiles, moths, butterflies, insects, marine life and fish, mammals, amphibians, flowers and plants as well as local habitat information.

Paul Sterry – Collins Complete Mediterranean Wildlife

Birds of the Mediterranean – A Photographic Guide by Paul Sterry

Another excellent book by Sterry who has produced this wonderfully illustrated guide to birds found in the Mediterranean.  You will be able to find out information on habitat, migration information and be able to determine one bird from another from sound and plumage if you read this book.  A good guide for those who are interested in the birds found in North Cyprus and for those who are already enthusiastic bird watchers!

Paul Sterry – Birds of the Mediterranean

An Illustrated Flora of North Cyprus by Deryck Viney

One of North Cyprus’ favourite expats, Viney spent many years and field trips gathering information on every possible type of flora found here in North Cyprus.  Instrumental in the opening of the Herbarium, Viney has produced many other volumes of work on fungi and flora in the Mediterranean, and his work is testament to the man’s love of the island. This is a fascinating book, and invaluable to those who love everything about plants and the landscape!

Deryck Viney – Illustrated Flora of North Cyprus

Cuisine

Cypriot Barbecue Delights & Side Dishes by Melek Cella

This book is great if you want to partake of traditional Cypriot cuisine because the trusty barbecue is a must if you’re looking to sample the culinary delights of North Cyprus!  Whether you are living here or visiting the island, this book is a great way to learn how to dish up tasty food with easy to follow recipes, and you will have no trouble in sourcing local ingredients either!

Melek Cella – Cypriot Barbecue Delights & Side Dishes