Lefkoşa had been the capital of Cyprus since the 7^th century and was once a prosperous and prominent city for many.  Buildings, monasteries and churches have been built in a prolific fashion during the city’s long history, but Lefkoşa has also unfortunately been a place of many conflicts – such as the invasion by the Marmelukes in 1426 and the subsequent arrival of the Venetians.  They reduced the city in size and fortified it with the walls that still remain to this day.  In the process of altering the city the Venetians also destroyed many fine examples of architecture spanning hundreds of years, including the resting place of the Lusignan monarchs.

In 1570 the city fell to the Ottoman Empire, and much like in other areas of Cyprus at this time, Lefkoşa fell in to disrepair and decay.  There are but a few examples of Ottoman architecture left in the city today.  The British arrived in Lefkoşa in 1878 and their mark on the city is evident with some wonderful Colonial style buildings, one of these now houses the central Post Office.  However the British also knocked down parts of the Venetian wall structure that would have been connected to the Kyrenia Gate, the entrance to the city, which now stands on its own.  This was done in the name of allowing traffic to flow more freely apparently!

In 1963 Lefkoşa was effectively divided into Greek and Turkish areas to suppress clashes between the two communities; the Green Line was firmly established by a British Military Commander who famously took a map and drew a line with a green pen to divide the city for the sake of peace.  The name for the border that divides the two Cypriot communities has been known as the Green Line ever since.  The division became absolute and formalised in 1974.

The Green Line is now open, (as of 2008), via the Lokmacı Crossing which is located in the heart of the city near to the market centre.  To cross the border to the south at any of the check points you will need a valid passport and you will also need to fill in a short visa form which is available from the passport control offices on the Turkish Cypriot half of the border.  The fact that since 2004 EU citizens are free to cross from one side of the city to the other means that we can now all enjoy Lefkoşa as a whole, and get a better understanding of the Cypriot people and a wider appreciation of Cyprus.

There are a myriad of sights to see in Lefkoşa, many of the most ancient ones are now being aided and improved by various restoration projects funded by the UN and European Union, and the city also has one of the largest arts and cultural centres in North Cyprus.  Many of the historical buildings, museums and monuments are located on the Blue Line walk, a project created by the UN to identify a circular route that visitors can take to tour these sites.  There are many more sites and sounds and experiences to be had in Lefkoşa, so do take time to read through our related articles covering museums, walking tours and sightseeing opportunities which will give you plenty of food for thought on what to do and where to go in Lefkoşa.  It really is a great city!

It can be reached along the Geçitkale to Boğaz main road, and you will see signs around 10 miles after turning off the main junction in Lefkoşa.  Turning left you travel up a long straight road through green fields (well it was winter when we visited!) and up into the village which itself sits on the lowland slopes of the Mesaoria Plain.

A traditional farming village still seemingly in full swing, it’s known for its peace and tranquillity and we have to agree as it was quite sleepy the day we went, but that was probably because it was a Sunday!

The main work to have taken place with the funding is the linking of around 3.2km of pipeline to bring water direct to the village from the nearest reservoir, which has made the lives of villagers much more modernised.

The visual restoration that you can see is in the main village square where the mosque is located, all buildings have been restored with the use of traditional materials and building techniques.  You can see the old mill stones once used for grinding seed into flour, but now enjoying their retirement as flower pots.  The buildings surrounding the meydan include a coffee house and little mini-market which have been restored and branded in tasteful lettering.

If you have a wander around the periphery of the village you will find other little bits of interest such as an old cistern bearing the ER mark, which would have obviously been built during the British times, and some examples of buildings built in the ‘kerpiç’ fashion – mud slab bricks basically, but a building technique which has stood the test of time all over North Cyprus.

We also found a great range of tractors, both used and seemingly abandoned, which, for one of our party was very enjoyable!  We had a chat with the local Mukhtar too who was very pleased that so many people were stopping to come and see what all the fuss was about!

Anyway, Kalavaç is a nice little village to visit if you have time on your hands, but try and go on a weekday when people aren’t taking a well earned rest and when the coffee shop will be open!

It is said that the town was founded in the 10^th century, and was called Corineum during the Roman period.  As can be seen by the many tall buildings surrounding the harbour, it was once a bustling trade port, the buildings used for storage of goods such as carob.  Under the British rule many improvements were made to the harbour area and also to the road system, allowing easy access through to Lefkoşa.  Kyrenia also boasts the New Harbour to the east of the town, which is a central departure point for passengers wishing to travel to and from Turkey.

The town sprawls out from the harbour and is home to a number of interesting museums and galleries, as well as being a hub for local tradesmen.  The old town is located behind the harbour, and if you wander along the rambling narrow streets you’ll come to small secret shops, cafes and restaurants some with tiny courtyards all tucked away in the shade of the buildings.  Some of the older buildings in the town, which are still used as residences, are amazingly intricate in architectural design and detail, giving a good indication of the wealth of sea-faring merchants in days gone by.

Kyrenia castle is lit up beautifully in the night time and adds a stunning focal point to the whole harbour area.  It dates back to the late 12th century and is believed to have been built on a former Roman fort.  Today it’s an exciting visitor attraction and museum with its lofty heights free and unrestricted by guard rails for people to climb around…parents watch out because a lot of those edges really are unprotected!  It also houses the famous shipwreck museum that is home to one of the oldest ships ever recovered from the sea. The castle also hosts music festivals and events, making it one of the most visited attractions in North Cyprus.

Many Europeans have already made their home in and around Kyrenia, making it feel less of a town but more of a small city these days, with development seemingly expanding on a daily basis, but together making it more appealing to potential investors and residents.  Kyrenia is a busy, social and cultural town with the GAU University only a short distance away, giving it a real mix of cultures and races.  To find out more about what do and see, where to eat, and much more, please check our related articles section.

The outskirts of Bellapais are also home to the Early Bronze Age necropolis of Vounous, although this site has now been pilfered and robbed by many and is no longer really the experience it should be.

The ruins of Bellapais Abbey itself are of huge proportions and you can spend hours exploring and gazing at some of the truly magnificent remains of superb gothic architecture, all incredibly imposing on the eye.  Originally founded as the Abbaye de la Paix in around 1200 by Aimery de Lusignan for the use of Augustine monks who had been forced to leave Jerusalem, it was also referred to in history as the White Abbey, possibly due to the fact that the monks who lived there all wore white habits.  It benefited from rich and influential benefactors such as King Hugues III, and grew considerably in size and importance.

This was however until the Genoese invaded in 1373 when it suffered terribly by being looted and robbed of its treasures – it was said that even part of the ‘true’ cross was taken.  From this time onwards the fortunes of the Abbey declined ever further with the Venetians sapping it of its prosperity for themselves, and it even morally declined too, being recorded that in the 16^th century some monks took a wife (or even two!) with their offspring being the only ones allowed to enter novice monkhood.

Once the Ottomans had invaded in 1570 the Abbey was left to decay even further, with much of its stonework being used to build up the surrounding areas and villages.  There is sadly not much evidence of what happened to the monks (and their wives!), but it is likely that they would have integrated into the communities that grew after the Ottomans arrived on the island.   Despite its decline, The Abbey still retains much of its charm, and enough of its structure remains so that even today there are still examples of architecture from the 13^th century, such as the church built in Frankish Gothic style with some wonderful frescoes and the nave, as well as 14^th century cloisters, and a superbly carved sarcophagus dating back to around 2AD, amongst much more of interest.

The ruins are a stupendous testament to history and one of its main features is the refectory which sits on the edge of the cliff overlooking the sea to the north – and above its entrance is a marble lintel bearing the carving of the arms of Jerusalem, the Lusignans and Cyprus.  Under British Rule this huge 27 metre long refectory was used as a rifle range, although somewhat surprisingly it remains intact!  Anyway, we shall not divulge all of its mystical charms, as you no doubt will want to visit yourselves!  Opening hours are usually 9am-7pm daily from June until mid-September and 9am-5pm daily from mid-September until May.

All around the Abbey there are wonderful sights to see, and due to its size, the wonderfully tended gardens, and its superb position offering views to the east and west you can spend many an hour at the Abbey before looking at your watch!  Outside of the Abbey itself there are plenty of places to have lunch or refreshments, and walking around the surrounding village you will see both modern and historical buildings of interest.

Today Bellapais is a busy village or small town with plenty of tourist groups and individuals making the journey up the mountain to visit this beautiful and enchanting place.  You can also attend one of the many musical events held at the Abbey during the festival season, although perhaps there is something to be listened to in the concerns expressed by some about the preservation of this monument and the damage that noise may do to its structures.

There are plenty of walking tracks leading from the village, so if you are in the mood for some exploring around the area then there is plenty to do, although it would be wise to have your bearings as there is opportunity for getting lost!  Bellapais is also well known for its wonderful little boutique hotels too, making it an excellent place to spend an affordable and rewarding holiday!

One remaining point of interest is that writer and novelist Lawrence Durrell lived in Bellapais from 1953-1955, writing his well-known book ‘Bitter Lemons of Cyprus’ and also his novel ‘Justine’ during this time.  Durrell describes his wonder at his first sighting of the Abbey and its history in detail several times in the book, and tells the humorous tale of the famous Tree of Idleness, which apparently made the person who sat underneath its branches extremely lazy!

Nowadays Çatalköy is a busy large town with a bustling centre, and it’s home to a number of expats who have fallen in love with this area and its surrounds.  It has expanded in recent years to incorporate a busy coastal road area with plenty of shops to cater for pretty much everything, the Malpas Resort Hotel has been built on its low lying mountain slopes, and the growing property market in the area has also seen its borders extend both to the east and west.  The town is also a popular place to eat out with several quality restaurants and bars, it is home to the well known Çatalköy Riding Stables, and it offers both peace and entertainment in equal measure.

The coastal area itself has some nice stretches of headland, popular with walkers, as well as the local Korfez or Belediye beach which is popular with holidaymakers and locals alike.  There is also a strip of land just behind the headland which was used as a plane runway in the past too, and you can also find the Hazreti Ömer Tekke along the coast.

Çatalköy’s history dates back to the Neolethic period, with the first settlers from Anatolia setting up home here around 7000/6500BC.  Evidence of their habitation in the area of Vrysin nearby has been found in the form of pottery made from earthenware, further evidence has been found from remains of dwellings which were generally made of stone and clay and often connected to each other by tunnels.  Dwelling sites were enclosed by huge walls.  The main source of income during the Neolithic period would have been generated by agriculture and earthenware pottery.  No one is certain but it is thought that these kinds of settlements would have been abadoned after earthquakes around 3000BC forced occuptants to settle elsewhere on the island.

If you fancy having a spot of lunch, watching the world go by or take a walk out into the surrounding countryside, then you can’t go wrong in taking time to visit Çatalköy.

If you’re looking to leave the hustle and bustle of Kyrenia behind and you want to venture out further into the ‘real North Cyprus,’ then head east along the coastal road and you’ll come to pretty Esentepe – your gateway to the Karpas region, the coast and the foothills of the Kyrenia range.  At its centre is a charming old village, which is so laid back it makes you want to sit down and while away the day over a coffee or perhaps a glass of local wine! The central village population is mainly made up of mainland Turkish people from the Black Sea region, who moved to North Cyprus post 1974.

Esentepe has grown over the past few years to become a village of some note because many visitors to the area have fallen in love with the area and sought to establish their own homes in and around the village.  Most of the new developments close to the village have taken root along the coast road.  Rest assured, none of this detracts from the idyllic coastal retreat of Esentepe village that nestles at the foot of the Kyrenia mountain range; rather the new development that has come to Esentepe has raised its profile and desirability instead of taking away its rural charm.

Esentepe and the beauty of the surrounding areas of Alagadi, Karaağac and Alevkaya make this area a must see, particularly due to the turtle nesting sites on the fantastic beaches of the area, the forest walks, picnic sites and the Herbarium featuring samples and illustrations of native botanical species.  It’s also an area historically rich with ruins of various monasteries, as well as the domed church of Antiphonitis which contains one of the last examples of 12^th and 15^th century frescoes in North Cyprus.

For further information on Esentepe, the surrounding areas, things to do and see and places to stay, please refer to our related articles.

To visit Karmi take the coastal main road from Kyrenia until you reach Karaoğlanoğlu, and take a left turn signposted for Edremit and Karaman.  You will make your way up the mountain passing through the village of Edremit and its popular little Basket Shop, up past the small and private Hilarion Holiday Village and then Treasure Restaurant, bending round sharply to the right, and then on into the village.

Once an EOKA stronghold, it is now home to a varied foreign population from Europe and North America.  The once dilapidated and derelict properties of Karaman were taken under the wing of the Ministry of Interior and Housing in 1979, and were given away for nominal amounts to foreigners on a lease basis, in return for their restoration.  Leaseholders were also subject to rules and guidelines to keep the village’s originality when restoring property.  In the 1980’s the Ministry of Tourism took over the running of Karaman and the rebuilding of the village as a whole, they also took over the development of infrastructure such as the electric, mains water, street lighting and roads.

There are around 160 houses in the village, mostly now used as holiday homes or part time residences, although there are a few full time residents in Karaman.  There are also still some freehold properties in the village, meaning that they had foreign pre-1974 title and as such are not subject to the same lease agreement.  You will find that the ground floors of these houses in Karaman are often referred to as ‘donkey rooms,’ and indeed they were just that in times past!  Being a mountain village, donkeys were a valuable source of labour, as well as heat, and they were housed on the ground floor overnight meaning their heat rose to keep those sleeping above warm.

The centre of the village houses an old Greek Cypriot Orthodox church, although it was never consecrated as such.  It is open to the public at various times of the year, such as at Christmas for carol singing and on some Sundays, but the local village shop may be able to open it for you should you find it closed when you choose to visit Karaman.

You can find local shops such as the village shop which also serves as social meeting place, providing postal services and internet access should the need arise when you are visiting.  There is also the local pub, The Crows Nest, where you can view local art for sale whilst having a well-earned pint.  A gallery opposite the shop sells locally produced art as well as photography prints by well-known Karaman resident and photographer Jean Clark.

There is also the Spot Bar which is open in the summer months, it has a wonderful view over to St Hilarion in the evenings.  The central village restaurant is called Levant and it reopened in the summer of 2008 and has proved very popular with visitors and locals alike.  It would also be worthwhile mentioning the Halfway House restaurant which is located on the main road just a short distance before the village, it’s run by a young Turkish Cypriot man and his mother.  The Halfway House is a small but very popular eatery serving delicious mezes along with meat and fish dishes, all freshly prepared and very more-ish!

Karaman is an extremely popular place for those who wish to be away from the hustle and bustle of the main coastal towns, and it’s also a great place to stay for those who wish to be as close to nature as possible.  There are plenty of walks to be had up into the mountains and across to the village of Ilgaz further west, but a stroll around the village, with its pretty individual houses, back streets and cobbled paths may be enough for some.  The local pond, lovingly cared for by local residents, has its own colony of terrapins which are a delight to see if you can spot them sunbathing on the water lilies!

Needless to say that Karaman and its surrounds are a place where you can find a wide variety of flora, and its also a great place from which to see many of the migratory birds as they cross the Kyrenia mountain range as they head southwards in autumn.

Karaman is sadly however being slowly encroached upon by the inevitable property development, together with a new and rather unsightly restaurant, with developers keen to play on the village and its idyllic location to encourage property buyers to purchase nearby.  However, the village itself will hopefully be allowed to retain its rustic charm and continue to attract visitors for years to come.

The more modern side of Lapta is obviously the coastal section, home to a number of bars, restaurants, pubs, cafes and hotels.  You have casinos, water sports, beach access, live music and a really good holiday feel along the strip.  Tourists of all ages are very well catered for, and Lapta in this respect offers a lot of entertainment options.  During the main summer season the area triples its population, such is the popularity of the resort.

The older side of Lapta rises up above the main strip and into the mountains, and a journey up into the old village and its surrounds provides one with a glimpse of a rich history.  The views from the village take in some of the best scenery on the island, with stunning mountain views from the old town and beautiful and peaceful Mediterranean views from the coast.  It is a popular retreat for expatriates and has been for many years.  Lapta is also famous for its abundance of citrus groves which are nourished by mountain springs.

Lapta is historically one of the richest and most interesting areas of Cyprus, and the settlement grew initially from refugees who settled further inland after having fled from their original coastal home of Lambousa, (meaning ‘Brilliant’ or ‘Shining’), after constant invasion by Arab pirates in the 7^th century.  Lambousa itself was said to have been formed upon the arrival of Spartan Greeks around the 12^th century.

From the 8th century when Phoenicians settled in Cyprus, it then became one of the city kingdoms of the island, then later when Cyprus was under Roman rule Lapta was a regional capital.

The inhabitants of Lambousa were said to have been given the choice by the invading Arabs to live freely anywhere on the island in return for surrendering their belongings and items of wealth.  However it would appear that some of the inhabitants chose to bury their ‘treasure’ rather than handing it over, as archaeologists and amateur treasure hunters began unearthing some stunning treasure in the 1990’s such as silver plate-ware dating from the 6^th century.

If you visit Lapta, and we certainly recommend you do, take time out to enjoy both the relaxed rural and historical charm of the old town as well as the fun and lively scene along the strip.  There are plenty of hotels on the coast, as well as a mix of raditional and European restaurants to satisfy any appetite!

Despite Ozanköy’s lowland setting it does not detract from the fact that it has one of the best views of the Bellapais Abbey which sits precariously high above the village on a natural plinth on the mountainside.  At night time when the Abbey is all lit up it’s a favourite sight for visitors and residents of Ozanköy alike.

The village itself is interwoven with olive, carob and lemon trees for which the area around Ozanköy is famous.  In the springtime the village is alive with pretty blossoms, in the winter it is aglow with citrus fruits, and in the summer it basks in the beautiful Mediterranean sunshine.  The village is located on the edge of the Kyrenia mountain range foothills, and its houses wind up and around Fehim Bey Hill to join the low lying residential areas of Bellapais.

The village centre is home to a pretty and now well maintained medieval church which was once decorated expansively with frescoes and murals.  Sadly many of the precious paintings have deteriorated over the years, but luckily the Turkish Cypriot people were able to save the church from complete decay when they arrived in the village.

The church is dedicated to the virgin of the river and houses an intriguing unmarked tomb dating back to the medieval period.  It is believed that the tomb houses the church’s founder and possibly his daughters as well.  Today the church is often used to house art and cultural exhibitions and events.

Ozanköy is also home to an 18th century church and of course a mosque.  The mosque is an original structure dating back to the Ottoman period with the pretty domed fountain in the village also believed to date from this period.  The mosque has been restored over the years, but much of the structure is original.  Outside there are tombs belonging to Altunzade Ismail and Mesut Efendi who were two of the founders of the mosque.

There’s an ancient crusader path that joins the villages of Ozanköy and Bellapais, and although it is a little overgrown in places, it makes an interesting and challenging climb!  Alternatively you can wander up the narrow tarmac road to Bellapais, and the higher you climb the more incredible the views of the gothic mountains of the Kyrenia range before you, and the more breathtaking the views of the Mediterranean Sea, Kyrenia and its harbours behind you.

If you visit Ozanköy be sure to spend time wandering around the pretty, narrow and ancient streets of the village, take in the beautifully preserved old houses side by side with authentic ramshackle buildings.  There are a number of small cafes, bars and restaurants in the village to restore you after a few hours wandering around, and you might even chance upon the local Muhtar (autonomous type chief!) who is a very active member of the community, getting involved in organising various events in conjunction with the Friends of Ozankoy, a group formed by locals and foreign home owners to encourage social gatherings.

The town has its own certain presence, it’s peaceful and traditional with a few quality restaurants such as The Archway, a traditional Turkish Cypriot restaurant.  It has a great atmosphere and is always popular with locals and holidaymakers alike.  A number of expats have also made the area their home due to its close location to the main town whilst still providing a peaceful setting in which to live.

Visitors are also treated to the ever growing and international North Cyprus Olive Festival each year in October, where there are plenty of opportunities to see and buy traditional olive products and enjoy the entertainment laid on for spectators.

You can also find the old olive mill which has seen some restoration to enable visitors to see how the mill used to operate, and it still contains a clocking in book where the workers signed in each day.

Zeytinlik is definitely worth a visit, especially at festival time when the place really comes to life!